10 de agosto de 2008

Perú: Puno, Cusco, Machu Picchu

PERDON POR LA TARDANZA!!!!!!

Luego de la gran visita por Copacabana nos dirigimos a cruzar nuestra segunda frontera (Perú).
Estacionamos, Aymi se va hacer los papeles a la frontera Boliviana y en 2 minutos estaba en la camio explicando que nos iban a multar con 640 bolivianos ($320) ya que al salir de Argentina no nos sellaron el pasaporte advirtiendo que luego iríamos a otro país no limítrofe (cosa que nunca nos comunicaron). Luego de explicarles nuestro viaje y nuestra situación aflojan y nos dicen que solamente pagaría uno (no nos quedó muy claro eso ya que las multas no se arreglan) pero bueno, fueron 280 bolivianos que dolieron pero solo queríamos salir de ahí.
Ya en la fontera Peruana todo fue muy fácil. Y desde ahí nos encaontramos con personas un poco mas accesibles y empezamos a disfrutar la belleza peruana mientras seguíamos bordeando el lago Titikaka.
Primero Puno: Un policía turístico se subió a nuestro auto y como vió nuestra situación nos llevó a un hotel amigo que nos cobró super barato. En este contratamos la excursión para las Islas de los Uros y Taquila.

Salimos al día siguiente a las 6:30, recorrimos primero las de los Uros (increíble).
Esta es una isla flotante, surge con la resistencia de esta tribu la invacion Incaica de la tierra de Puno. Ellos tratan de escapar en balsas hechas de totoras hacia el lago. Cuando vieron que los enemigos no se iban de su territorio empezaron a ingeniárselas en el agua para sobrevivir allí. Construyeron con sus totoras una isla que hoy dia forman docientas y en cada cual viven aproximadamente 8 familias, entre ellas se elige un presidente quien deside quien cocina, quien va a pescar etc. y asi de simple viven.



La segunda isla que visitamos es la de los Taquila. Llegamos justo para una fiesta típica que se celabra anualmente donde vemos muchos bailes, trajes, colores, cerveza y alegría.
Tuvimos la oportuniad de compartir una charla con algunos de los chicos que pasaban curiosos por nuestras cámaras y nos contaron un poco de su vida en la isla. Fue muy interesante y lindo, sobretodo cuando nos digeron que les gustaba nuestra visita.



Llegamos a Cusco luego de 8 horas manejando y nos encontramos con un a ciudad completamente sólida, donde se nota a la vista el paso de los Incas como fuerte civilización; esto es por las ruinas que hay a sus alrededores (entre ellas Machu Pichu) y por la clara intención de consolidarse tambien de los españoles, reflejado en una gran Plaza de Armas y un montón de grandes edificios e iglesias por toda la ciudad. Para construirlos usaron, irónicamente las mismas bases que los Incas dejaron.




Decidimos hacer nuestro propio "Camino del Inca" (el real se vende a 600 dólares y está agotado hasta Diciembre), sin tours ni nada parecido. Le compramos los pasajes hacia el primer pueblo desde donde empezaremos nuestro trakking a el dueño de una agencia que nos entendió y decidió ayudarnos; por eso nos dijo que alli nos "colaramos" a su grupo que llega con dos guías esa mañana.
Y así fue, nos unimos a ellos (dos canadienses, cuatro escoces, dos ingleses y dos holandeses: ninguno hablaba español!!!!!!!!!! jajajaj Pancho se aburrió un poco y tuvo que dejar su sociabilización de lado; pero por suerte estaban Victor y Alfredo los dos guías con quienes pegamos muy buena onda) pagamos todo barato porque nos metíamos en el grupo de descuento para comer y dormir.
Aymi se descompuso el primer día, tanto que estuvimos por volvernos, pero por arte de magia apareció un campesino que nos hizo agarrar unas hojas de un árbol del camino y preparó una infusión que le hizo desaparecer el dolor como si nunca hubiese estado; y pudimos seguir el viaje!




Caminamos cuatro largos días hasta Machu Picchu... Y SI! LLEGAMOS!!! El último día nos levantamos a las 4 de la madrugada para subir la montaña con muchísima lluvia y a oscuras... que experiencia increíble!

Y ahí estaba.. apareció al amanecer la increíble ciudad Inca perdida entre las montañas y las nubes.


Es muy grande y se ven ruinas por todos lados como despojos de una fuerte cultura bien organizada y con intenciones de perdurar en el tiempo. Ellos no lo consiguieron, pero estos rastros si (esto no es poca cosa ya que su arquitectura es maravillosa y hoy en día sigue en pie), y son la señal de que ahí estuvieron, vivieron y planificaron su expansión.
A primera hora subimos al Wayna Picchu (la montaña que se ve en las típicas postales de Machu Picchu), más subida agotadora pero vale la pena porque se aprecia la ciudad bien desde lo alto... es realmente indescriptible. No sirven las fotos ni las plabras: VAYAN!!!!!!

Pasamos toda la mañana con cosquillitas en la panza recorriendo este lugar que tiene magia y misticidad por todos lados.
Volvimos aparte del grupo porque ellos regresaban en tren y nosotros caminando! Si, otras tres horas más.

Llegamos a un lugar donde había combis y autos. Nos subimos a uno que nos llevaba hasta Cusco (buenísimo porque no tendríamos que hacer trasbordo de acá para alla) pero nos dejo en un pueblito a los pocos kilómetros porque no tenía pasajeros y no le convenía seguir! Increíble! Qué hacíamos ahora?? Nos subimos a otro que manejaba como loco por los precipicios pero nos llevó por poca plata a un pueblo donde pudimos dormir y esperar el colectivo a la mañana siguiente.
Nos reencontramos en Cusco con la Celestina que descansaba en un garage. Ahí dormimos esa noche para seguir viaje hacia Nasca al día siguiente.

46 comentarios:

Anónimo dijo...

POR DIOS!!!!! QUE EXPERIENCIA!!!!La verdad que es envidiable lo que estan viviendO!!!...Los amo mucho mucho!!!Llamen o escriban pronto. MAMA NACHA

Anónimo dijo...

Cómo no van a estar perdonados por la tardanza??!! Al final ver todas las fotos juntas (Bolivia y Perú) y leer en cada renglón algo mas maravilloso que en el anterior....da tanta felicidad q no importa el tiempo sin noticias!! que lindo todo chicos! Creo q Perú levantó un poco el ánimo de Bolivia, y me alegro, porque se nota q los disfrutaron muchisimo!
Definitivamente hay que ir!Cada foto que veo de Machu Picchu me convence màs...es impresionante!

Ahora sí nos dieron la dosis necesaria para esperar las novedades de los próximos kilómetros! De modo que me quedo tranquila...disfrutando de todas estas imágenes herrrrrmosas!!!
Les mando un beso enorme! sigan disfrutando tanto de todo! y gracias por compartirlo con nosotros!

P/d: amiga...cuando estás con el gorrito puesto..sos toda una super turista!! jaja

p/d1:Menos mal que apareció ese campesino reemplazando al menos un instante a mamá Nacha, no? je!

P/d2: QUE LINDO LEERLOS!!!!!!

Los quiere mucho...Kari

Anónimo dijo...

miren lo que estos bichos lograron al confiar en sus sueños.
no tengo palabras asi que le robo a Solari. jajaja
es increible.
me pone tan bien que ustedes esten felices, y eso se nota. van a pasos agigantados. los quiero mucho.
Pabli.

Anónimo dijo...

HERMOSO, GENIAL,IMPRESIONANTE, Los felicito y creo que nos convencen y en cualquier momento nos vamos. Lo lograste JUANITO MIO!!!!! .Estoy tan orgullosa.Aimy te ves hermosa, que colorcito!!!!!. Los felicito,los quiero y sigan disfrutando, no dejen de comunicarce. LOS AMO. MAMA ALE

Anónimo dijo...

Contagian ganas de viajar!
Es lo unico que digo
Los quiero!
Sol

Anónimo dijo...

UUAAAUUU
Que lindo!!! la verdad que si por las fotos nos dan tantas ganas de vivirlo me imagino lo que sera en vivo y directo!! Se ven hermosos y muy felices, sigan disfrutando a pleno.. quiero escucharlos llamen!
sus sobrinito los sigue todos los dias, es culo inquieto como el tio no para de moverse!!!
Los quiero muchisimo!!
Dol

Anónimo dijo...

chicos es alucinante lo que estan haciendo, sigan escribiendo y mostrandonos esto maravilloso que estan viviendo...
voy a ver si mi hermana tiene conocidos por donde siguen, les escribo cualquier cosita...
sigan disfrutando!!!!
moto te extrañamos!!!!
agus trivellini

Anónimo dijo...

Bueno queridos amigos...

¡¡FELICES 2 MESES DE VIAJEEEEE!!

Se dan cuenta?? 2 mesessss!!!
A mi me parece que hace un año se fueron...debe ser que los extraño mucho ya! Me acuerdo del bocinazo de despedida en alem, saliendo con la Estan hacia el viaje mas esperado por todos!! que lindo!!
Pero por otro lado, no puedo creer que pasaron solamente 2 meses (re contradictoria! jaja) y ya hayan tenido tantas experiencias, que hayan recorrido lugares tan tan únicos y hermosos, conocido tanta gente...pasado 2 fronteras! y cuantas cosas mas que seguro ustedes llevan en sus corazones y en sus cabecitas y que son suyas suyas!!!
Me alegro muchisimo de que esten haciendo esto que venimos hablando desde hace tanto!y que taaanto significa para uds!
Los quiero y brindo porque siga todo genial, que se les presenten lugares y perosnas maravillosas y que DISFRUTEN JUNTOS DE ESA LINDA VIDA!!!

Los extraño....Kari

P/d: me olvide de decirles antes que estan muy lindos!!! jeje

P/d1: segun mi compu son las 00.22 hs..asiq mas vale que no aparezca cualquier hora en el comentario asi despues no dicen..."no era el 14 Kari, era el 15" jajaj! besossss

Anónimo dijo...

Les dije!!! estaba desde las 23.45 esperando que sean las 24.00 horas para escibrles apenas empezaba el 15, y que hora dice publicado el comentario?????... 20.23!!! no esto es insólito! menos mal que lo previne!! jajajaja
Les doy la pruba de que son más de las 12...(despues averiguen como puedan) estan pasando a los nadadores de la final de nado mariposa, de hombres en Beijin!!! jajajaja

Mucho besos!! jajajaaaa
kari

Anónimo dijo...

claro! ahora que en mi compu dice 11.35, seguro que en el comentario va a aperecer el dia 15 de agosto!!! jajajajaja
No me importa, igual aqui estoy... haciendo presencia el mismisimo dia 15!! jaja

Besos queridos!
Kari

Anónimo dijo...

HOY 2 MESES!!!! Queridos mios, ya que festejamos los 2 meses serian tan amables de llamar o mandar un mensaje o señales de humo o paloma mensajera o alguna forma de contacto CARAJO!!!!!. Dale no sean colgados y llamen a sus madres. Los amo MAMA ALE.

Anónimo dijo...

adhiero totalmente a MAMA ALE!!!! Llamen de una vez.....ya van a ver lo que es la incertidumbre cuando uno es padre!!!! Estoy enojada pero igual......LOS AMO TANTOOOO!!!MAMA NACHA.

Anónimo dijo...

Apoyo la mosion del club de fans de las mamis! sin saber lo que es no tener noticias de sus hijitos, pero imaginandomelo! (yo ya me vuelvo loquita y son mis amigos! jaja)

Besos amigos!
LOS QUIERO.
Kari

Anónimo dijo...

hola aymy te keremos mucho
besis
anto cinchu t sandru

Anónimo dijo...

Hooooolaaaaa queridos!!! que bueno que esten bien, espero que esos 6000 y pico de kilometros no sean nada cuando termine este viaje. Desde Tucuman el mayor cariño para los dos. Estamos y estaremos siempre con ustedes.
Un abrazo inmenso,
Andrés.-

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